Rustic Elegance Laminate Installation Handbook
The Do It Yourselfer's Guide To Laminate Installation for
Rustic Elegance Laminate
Handbook
for Rustic Elegance Word.doc
Downloads for Printing
Written and Presented by: Heidemann Flooring Laminate Flooring
(435) 586-4431
Tools Needed For Installation
Cleaning And Maintenance
What about that expansion gap?
Preparing For Installation
Laminate Adjoining A Sunken Room
Stairs (Enclosed Stairways Only)
Installing Padding (not required)
Installation Of The Planks
Door Jambs
Fireplaces
Dishwashers
Moldings and Transition Pieces
Installing Over Radiant Heat
When you wish to use glue…
Moldings and Transition Pieces continues
Bathrooms And Kitchens
Tools Needed For Installation
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The following tools may vary with your specific
installation, please contact before having to go out and
making a purchase.
Tapping block (should fit the product's tongue)
Pull bar
Spacers (If you run out, use scraps of laminate)
Saw (table saw or circular saw)
Pencil
Level
Tape Measure
1 lb. Hammer
Jamb Saw or Undercut Saw
Plastic Tape (Duct Tape) for taping pad
Utility Knife or Scissors
Liquid Nails or Polyethylene Glue
Brad Nailer (optional, for trim pieces)
Masonite or scrap lumber (1/8 in. thickness)
To repair minor chips, etc., you can use colorfill
epoxy in the same color as the floor. First, surround the
area to be repaired with masking tape to prevent excess
epoxy from getting on the rest of the laminate. Fill the
area with the epoxy and let dry. Wipe up excess with acetone/fingernail
polish remover (that contains acetone).
To remove a damaged board, have someone kneel
or stand on the board that is above the one you wish to
remove. Grasp the board firmly and pull up about 3 inches
and pull out. It will come out easily when raised.
For further installation help, please feel
free to call 435-586-4431 and talk to Mike, or Holly. We
offer free installation advice to all of our customers.
Cleaning And Maintenance
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1. To regularly clean flooring, you can first use a broom,
swiffer, or vacuum (no beater bars….use hard surface tool
only). When deep cleaning is necessary, only clean a small
area at a time (5X5 ft. area) and dry with a towel as you
go to prevent streaking. You can use white vinegar and clear
warm water (4 to 1) and a wrung out mop. USE AS LITTLE MOISTURE
AS POSSIBLE. Follow immediately with a dry towel or cloth
to prevent streaking. (If you put a towel down, then push
it around with a dust mop, etc. on top, you won't be on your
hands and knees.) DO NOT use detergents, as they often leave
a residue behind that makes the floor streak when cleaning
in the future. For sticky messes, etc., you can use Windex
and a dry towel or cloth.
2. Place mats at outside doors to collect dirt and debris.
Sharp foreign objects in shoes can scratch the floor.
3. Clean up spills as quickly as possible.
4. Use furniture glides (felt protectors or wide base castors)
under heavy furniture, equipment, and furniture with metal
legs.
5. Be careful when moving heavy objects across the room.
6. NEVER WAX, SEAL, OR POLISH THE FLOOR. It never needs to
be sanded or refinished, either.
7. To clean stains….For nail polish, tar, cigarette burns,
use acetone (nail polish remover) and it will come right up.
What about that expansion
gap?
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5/16 inch around the perimeter
*Installation Concept
One of the unique ideas that makes laminate
flooring easier to install is that the floor floats over
the surface rather than being attached to the surface.
Due to the characteristics of wood, laminate
expands and contracts with the weather, humidity, and changes
of season. It is therefore necessary to provide ample room
(5/16 in.) around the entire perimeter, under door frames,
and any other area where the perimeter of the laminate may
come in contact with any other surface.
Preparing For Installation
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1. Remove any carpeting and pad if you are installing laminate
in that area. Linoleum, vinyl, and ceramic tile (as long as
it is an even, level area) can be left. You can install right
over them.
2. Check sub floor for unevenness by putting a 2X4 diagonally
across the room. Lay a level on top. If floor is uneven, purchase
a self leveling compound from your local hardware store. It
mixes with water and will automatically fill in all low spots.
3. Sweep and vacuum sub floor.
4. Make sure that boxes of flooring have acclimated inside
the house for 48 hours.
5. Decide which way you would like boards to lie in each room.
Most manufacturers recommend having the grain of the wood
follow the sunlight from a window, but it is really a matter
of what you feel looks best in your application.
6. It is very important that you watch the enclosed installation
video at least once, even if you've installed this type of
flooring before. Professional installers should also watch
our video before installation as manufacturers differ in their
guidelines for their particular brand.
7. Measure your room and divide by the width of the laminate
planks to determine how many planks it will take to complete
the room. If less than a 2 ½ in. piece must be used
at the end, you will need to start out with a partial board
across your first row. That way, both the first and the last
row will have a large enough piece that it will be stable.
THE MOST IMPORTANT PREINSTALLATION ADVICE
WE CAN GIVE IS TO READ THE MANUFACTURER'S INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE
INSTALLING. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THEIR GUIDELINES CAN RESULT
IN VOIDING OF THE WARRANTY.
This diagram illustrates the correct way to
install stairs.
Laminate Adjoining A
Sunken Room
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When you are installing laminate in the sunken area only….Finish
with quarter round where the laminate meets the carpet.
When you are installing laminate in the top
area only, you have two choices, doing just the top part
of the stair (where you'd finish with the stairnose…see
below instructions), ore doing the entire stair/step…see
directions below.
Stairs (Enclosed Stairways
Only)
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If you have an open stairway (no wall on each side), you must
have a carpenter do all the finishing.
1. When installing stairs, there is no need to have an expansion
joint. The floor will not float, it will be glued or nailed
down.
2. Measure and cut the laminate to fit the tread and the riser,
leaving room for the track of the stairnose. Make sure that
you measure carefully and have the laminate go directly against
the wall on both sides.
3. Either glue (with polyethylene glue) or use a brad nailer
to secure the laminate to the steps. If using a brad nailer,
nail along the edges, so that the trim will cover the small
holes.
4. Install quarter round on the indent of the step where the
tread meets the riser.
5. Install the track on the nose of the stair using screws
or liquid nails, then glue the stairnose molding into place
in the track. This way, it will be extremely secure.
Installing Padding
(not necessary with Rustic Elegance)
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If you are going to install additional pad, please adhere
to the following:
1. Install the pad 5/16 inch away from the wall, same as the
laminate.
2. Tape the seams with a water impermeable (plastic) tape.
Duct tape works very well.
3. Do not overlap the seams.
4. Only unroll one row at a time and install rows as necessary.
This keeps the pad from collecting debris before you are ready
to install the rest of the laminate.
5. Do not tape or glue the flooring down. It should float
freely.
6. Make sure that the blue side of the Quiet Walk pad is up
against the floor.
Above: How Quiet Walk works over concrete…
Installation Of The
Planks
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The first 3 rows are the most difficult to install due to
the fact there will be no weight on the floor until 3 rows
are established. You can minimize the amount of force necessary
in tapping panels together if you use a solid surface, such
as a baseboard or a 1X2 inch furring strip, in the beginning
of the installation to tap against. NO SPACERS SHOULD BE USED
UNTIL 3 ROWS OF THE LAMINATE HAVE BEEN TAPPED TOGETHER. Once
the 3 rows are established, pull out the floor from the wall
and install your spacers. Then, slide the floor up to the
spacers again.
1. If you are using a tap together product
(Rustic Elegance), it is sometimes easier to get the first
few boards together if you'll wipe the tongue of the product
with a slightly damp cloth. Sometimes if dust or debris
gets on the tongue, this locking mechanism is so precise
that it won't allow it to lock. Wiping it slightly allows
it to go together the way it was intended easily.
2. When you tap the boards together, please be careful not
to tap too hard, as that can damage the tongue and break
it. Just tap gently, but firmly, watching for the seam to
close. Once the seam is closed, don't continue tapping.
Sometimes, if you continue tapping, you can cause one board's
laminate to bite into the adjacent board.
3. Always keep the tongue toward you as you are installing.
Do not tap against the groove.
4. VERY IMPORTANT! Make sure that you overlap seams by at
least 16-18 inches. Not doing so will void your warranty
and will cause the product to not have the stability it
needs.
5. To install the first row, start from the left and slide
the short side of another board with the first one to complete
a link between the two. Continue until you near the end
of the room in that first row. Then, put a spacer between
the wall and the first board, so your space is correct.
(5/16 inch all the way around the perimeter of the floor.)
Measure to fit the last board in that row. To install the
last board (if up against the wall), you can either slide
it or pull it in with the pull bar.
6. To use the pull bar, put the tongue of the pull bar between
the wall and the laminate and gently tap on the lip on top
to "pull" the laminate piece in.
7. You can now put the spacers along the wall between the
laminate you've just installed and the wall.
8. As you install the rows, slide or tap the short ends
first, then tap the long sides.
Door Jambs
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First of all, if you are flowing laminate in and out of rooms,
make sure that you have an area all together that is no longer
or wider than 36 continuous feet. More than that requires
an additional expansion joint. If you are flowing from room
to room or down a hall, please follow the following guidelines.
To go through a doorway and allow laminate
to pass through a doorway and go under the door casing…
1. Take laminate (and pad if using additional
pad), flip it upside down and use a jamb saw (handheld saw)
to undercut the casing to the same height.
2. Measure your laminate and continue through the doorway.
Fireplaces
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To border a fireplace, you can do one of two things….
You can either use an undercut saw with a masonry blade and
undercut the fireplace to allow the laminate to slide just
under, or you can use an end cap to finish that edge.
Dishwashers
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Install the laminate just past the dishwasher, so you won't
see the edge of the laminate. Most dishwashers can be raised
to accommodate the laminate. Then, put a bead of latex caulking
underneath to help seal out moisture.
Moldings and Transition
Pieces
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1. You can either pull your existing baseboard and reuse it,
put new base down, or you can leave the old base and put quarter
round in to cover the expansion joint.
 
When installing base/and or quarter round,
it is best to use an air brad nailer as it is fast and makes
a professional looking finish. When the floor is finished,
simply take out the spacers, put the baseboard down next
to the wall and brad nail it directly into the wall. (MAKE
SURE YOU DO NOT NAIL THROUGH THE LAMINATE.) When putting
down the quarter round, you can brad nail it into the base
(making sure that it isn't going into the floor) at a 45
degree angle, or you can put a bead of latex caulking around
the perimeter and set your quarter round down in that.
Installing Over
Radiant Heat
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(These instructions are direct from the manufacturer.)
Here are the steps to take on the installation of the laminate
floor on the heating water based tube floor embedded in concrete:
1. Install the flooring normally.
2. Turn the heat up after the installation is complete on
a day to day basis.... 25% of the normal room temperature
on the first-third day.... 50% on the fourth-sixth day,
and so on. If installed in the summer, it must still be
done.
3. After the first week... then normal room temperature......
4. Normal Moisture (humidity) must be maintained or there
will be changes to the floor...
When you wish to use glue…..
^ Back to Top ^
When installing in wet areas, it is recommended
that you use a bead of glue along the locking mechanism
to further prevent moisture from seeping through the seams.
This is a clicklock product and has a very tight joint.
It has been sprayed at the factory with a silicone sealant
to help with moisture protection. However, in moist areas,
extra steps must be taken to protect your flooring. This
is when you may wish to glue your laminate together. To
do this, simply put a bead of glue along the tongue, then
click the flooring together as you would normally. If you've
used an adequate amount of glue, some will squeeze out when
you do this. Just wipe up the excess glue with a damp rag.
No straps, clamps, or any other items associated with typical
glued flooring is necessary due to the locking mechanism
on this clicklock product.
Moldings and Transition
Pieces continue…
^ Back to Top ^
2. To install transition pieces, make sure
you leave the proper expansion joint (1/4 inch) on both
sides of the track. DO NOT LAY PAD UNDER TRACK. Cut the
track to fit the transition area. If you are installing
over concrete, you will need to use glue to install the
track. You can use liquid nails, but we like polyethylene
glue as it is much stronger. If you are going over a wood
sub floor, simply secure the track with screws. Then, measure
the transition area and cut the transition piece to fit.
Snap the transition piece down into the preinstalled track.
3. T Moldings….install laminate on both sides, leaving room
for the track and an expansion joint on both sides, then
follow the instructions above. The molding should cover
both sides of the laminate.
4. Carpet End Caps….install the track near the carpet edge
(see diagram). Install laminate on the other side, leaving
the expansion joint (1/4 in. space) next to the track. Tuck
the end of the carpet that goes past the tack strip down
under the carpet end cap.
5. Outside doors, sliding doors, etc…Using Carpet End Caps
in these areas….Just put the track in place in front of
the existing door frame. Install your laminate, leaving
the ¼ inch expansion joint between the laminate and
the track. Snap the molding down into the track and you're
done.
6. Reducers….when transitioning to vinyl, or just going
from one height to another, install the track, leaving the
expansion joint between that and the laminate, and snap
the molding down in.
You can also use a reducer in reverse if you
have the laminate as the low side and another type of flooring
(ceramic tile, hardwood, etc. ) that is the high side. You'd
simply reverse the reducer.
7. Stairs…Please go to the page that details
how to install stairs.
*If you are using Quiet Walk pad with the
8mm products, you may need to put in an 1/8 inch piece of
masonite or scrap lumber under the molding track (make sure
it is the same width as the track) to raise it to the level
of the laminate and pad.
Bathrooms And Kitchens
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When using laminate in bathrooms and kitchens, there are some
precautions you should take to prevent moisture damage.
1. Put a 1/8 in. bead of latex caulking around
the perimeter of the room (also around toilet flange, sinks,
icemaker inlets, dishwashers, etc.) when you are finished
installing the laminate. Set your trim down in that latex
caulking. DO NOT use silicone, as it will break out and
crack. Pure silicone doesn't work well because it is not
as flexible. The latex will allow for expansion and contraction.
It is very flexible.
2. To further prevent moisture damage, you can put a bead
of glue along the tongue before snapping it together. After
snapping it together, wipe up the excess with a damp cloth.
3. Use mats in front of tubs and sinks, under dog waters,
etc., to prevent spills from sitting on the laminate for
a long period of time.
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